Trip to Kenya, part 1

So, I guess I’m getting a little bit of a late start for this year’s goal. One week behind. Well, we’ll just move on.

Last month, Scott and I went to Kenya. It was my first trip there in almost 10 years. The last time I was there was in May-June 2001 as my college graduation present. (The first trip was my semester there in Fall 1999). It was fantastic to see everyone again.

Nairobi is noisier, dirtier and more crowded than it was 10 years ago. We stayed with Mama Lucy, my host mom from 1999 in Olympic Estate in Kibera. I would have no idea how to get to Swahili school as the road we used to take is now FULL of kiosks and shops and nothing looks familiar past the first few dozen feet.

Olympic Estate itself is different. It took a beating after the 2007 election. The house on the corner where my friends lived burned down. Not that you can see because there is now an uninterrupted line of kiosks all down the main street. I guess most of the kiosks were destroyed and when it calmed down, they came back in full force. The matatus still stop at the corner on the main street, but now the buses do too. Mama Lucy mocked me for going to get the bus in the wrong direction, but I was walking to where they used to be! I even have a map in my notes from my semester there that proves I’m not crazy.

Riding in a matatu is a different experience. In 1999 and 2001, it was “there’s always room for one more” and you sat there until they crammed the vehicle completely full before it left. This was my first trip back since the new laws were put in place. One butt per seat. Such luxury! The KBS buses are different too. Smaller, all seats, no standing in the doorway, hanging on for dear life. Again, luxury! Now there’s another line of buses too – Citi Hoppa. Only took that company’s bus once I think. Was fine. Not really much different, except I think they don’t have the little machines that the KBS guys do, if I remember correctly.

As usual, Mama Lucy is the best. She bought us welcome flowers and had the room all ready for us. The same room I stayed in when I was there the first time. And second. Used to share with Betty. Then Michelle. Then Jurgen. Now there’s a bunk bed and a regular bed so room for 3. New fancy shower system for upstairs too. And new paint. And couches. And bathroom tiles. Her house looks very nice. And she was nothing but a great host. Love her. Her house still has the banana trees out front. Gotta love it.

On our first full day in Nairobi, we went downtown and walked around. Went to the memorial garden (the site of the former US embassy that was bombed in 1998). The funky building next door is now a functioning building again. I guess the structure was usable after the bombing so it was gutting and is now shiny and new. I remember that building being really creepy the first time we were there. We walked all around downtown, including out to the National Theatre so I could show Scott where I took drumming lesson with Julius. I think he lives in Norway now. Wish I had tried a little harder to keep in touch.

We went to City Market to do some preliminary shopping for souvenirs for the family back home. I forgot how exhausting souvenir shopping in Nairobi can be. Though it was nothing compared to the Masai Market the next week.

We had lunch at some random place downtown. Stopped at an Uchumi to get some water. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that diet coke can now be purchased in most of the grocery stores in Nairobi. It’s the little things. I remember that being such a rare luxury in 1999, so I was amused that it was easily available. After walking around downtown, we headed back home to hang out with Lucy and Jeff for the evening and get ready for our Masai Mara safari the next day.

Next time…animals!